Pond Doc's Diagnosis Page for Koi & Goldfish Health Problems

The Pond Doc specializes in Koi and Goldfish Health. He's recognized internationally for his expertise. KoiCarp Magazine of the U.K. chose our website as one of the top 10 websites for koi health!

Below is a list of symptoms that koi and goldfish (whether they are in a pond or aquarium) sometimes exhibit when they are sick and needing treatment. We cannot make a "diagnosis" without seeing the koi or goldfish - and - sometimes koi and goldfish may be too far gone and beyond help.

BUT -- we can be fairly accurate with choosing the correct method of treatment if you notice your fish exhibiting any of the symptoms listed below. We cannot guarantee that your fish will heal from these treatments but these are tried and solid methods of treatment for common (and some not-so-common) ailments.

Find the symptom(s) that your fish are showing from the list on the left. Then click on the link of possible problems your fish may have that are listed on the right for a more complete explanation of what they may be experiencing. From there you can further click onto the correct treatment regimen you should follow to treat your fish and give them the best chance possible for a quick recovery.

In some cases, you may be surprised to learn that your fish are just acting normal!

Symptom		Possible Diagnosis

Bloated Body		Egg Impaction / Dropsy (Internal organ bacterial infection)

Blood Streaked Fins or Skin		Nitrite Poisoning / Stress / Septicemia

Brown Blood		Nitrite Poisoning

Clamped Fins		Health problem exists. Test Water Parameters and check for other symptoms.

Complete Fish Kill		Virus / pH Crash

Eyes Bulging (Pop Eye)		Dropsy (Internal organ bacterial infection)

Fins Deteriorating		Fin Rot (Bacterial Infection)

Flashing (Fish are flipping or scratching themselves on bottom or sides of pond)		Parasites, Could be any kind.

Fungus or Cottony Growth		Fungus feeding off dead tissue.

Gasping for Air (Fish at top of water or at base of waterfall gasping for air)		Low Dissolved Oxygen and/or Parasites

Gills Discolored or Ragged		Could be Viral Infection, Bacterial Gill Disease, Flukes or Damage from Ammonia

Head Hanging		Parasites, Most Likely Flukes. / Internal Bacterial Infection

Hiding (Alienating himself from the others)		Particular fish has health problem. Test water and check for other symptoms.

Hiding (All Fish)		Fish are Stressed. Water parameters may be off. May be a Predator scaring them. May be too much activity around pond (ie. animals, children, netting a fish)

Jumping Out of the Water		Could be bad Water Parameters. This is common with females during Spawning and for New Fish until they get settled.

Kinked Back / Kink in Spine		Vitamin C Deficiency / Electricity in Water / Lightning Strike

Lump Protruding from Side of Fish		Probably a Tumor

Mouth Sores or Rotting Away		Mouth Rot (Bacterial Infection)

Not Eating		Normal if following a spawning (full from eating eggs) / Otherwise is sign a problem exists. Test water and check for other symptoms.

Overnight Kill of All (or Almost All) Fish		pH Crash / Low Dissolved Oxygen

Upside Down (Fancy Goldfish floating upside down)		Swim Bladder Problems

Peeling Skin		pH Problem

Scales Popping Out		Dropsy (Internal organ bacterial infection)

Sores Anywhere On Fish		Ulcer Disease, probably brought on by Parasites

Sunken Eyes		Wasting

Emergency
Don't waste your time here if you are currently experiencing a major fish kill. Bookmark this page for later reference and click HERE now!

Before You Pick Up the Phone to Call...
We do not have a crystal ball and we cannot diagnose with any certainty any fish health problems over the phone! Please exhaust all methods of research before calling. A search engine is located below to help you. If you are not prepared with basic pond information we cannot help you at all -- even though we'd love to be able to! Test your pond water for ammonia, nitrites, and pH then read, read, read. We've spent years placing this information on the internet for your use.

Below are listed the possible problems your fish may be experiencing and a more thorough explanation of what's going on inside. There will be a link under each problem that will lead you to the suggested treatment regimens you can follow to rid your pond and fish of the problem.

Bacterial Gill Disease
Bacterial Gill Disease, also referred to as "BGD" is when the gills of the fish are eaten away by bacterial infection. To check for this disease, carefully pull back the gill plate enough to examine the gill tissue. It should be red and smooth with even edges. Signs of the disease include pale gills and frayed edges. The tissue itself may appear "moth eaten". Although bad bacteria cause infections and contribute to the death of the fish the bacteria themselves do not actually initiate the disease. It's other things. BGD can develop through overcrowding, parasitic infestation (most likely Flukes) and poor water quality. It is spread from one fish to another and can come in with new arrivals. The best way to treat BGD is to get rid of whatever is causing it then treat the symptoms. Find more information on bacterial diseases in our article, "Battle of the Bacteria".

Since BGD is initiated by poor water quality, parasites and/or overcrowded conditions you must first correct the problem that's causing it. #1 - Test the water for pH, Ammonia and Nitrites. A master test kit is available that will cover all these very necessary tests. If you find any readings of ammonia or nitrites, fix the problem! If you pH is not between 7.0 and 8.0 and/or is not stable, correct it and stabilize it using pH Stabilizer. #2 - If the water tests are fine then look for signs of parasites. If parasites are suspected then it's most likely Flukes and, to be on the safe side, I would treat the pond for Flukes using Anti-Fluke or Fluke Tabs and Perform a Salt Treatment at the same time. #3 - Treat the disease itself with Chloramine T. NEVER USE MORE THAN ONE KIND OF TREATMENT AT THE SAME TIME - THIS WILL RESULT IN FISH DEATH. The only exception would be the salt.

Bacterial Infections
Bacterial infections often follow a parasitic infestation. Parasites, such as flukes, create microscopic holes in the skin of the fish and that allows bacteria (almost always present in even healthy ponds) enter and infect the fish. This type of bacterial problem usually manifests as red, infected sores - called ulcers. Infection also results when bad bacteria, such as aeromonas and pseudomonas, build up and attack a fish whose immunity system is low. It can develop over time or be brought in by other fish. It can manifest in several ways. Fin Rot, Mouth Rot, Ulcers are common forms of the disease. It can also be an internal infection such as Dropsy or Septicemia, affecting organs inside the fish. Find more information on bacterial diseases in our article, "Battle of the Bacteria". Find Medications for Bacterial Problems

When treating infections with antibiotics, whether they are ulcers or internal infections, the water temperature should be over 64 degrees or your antibiotic treatments will not work. Internal infections are best treated by feeding your fish a diet of triple antibiotic food for 2 weeks then go back to their normal diet. You can also inject the fish with antibiotics or have a vet do it. Performing a salt treatment along with the other is also an excellent idea! If the infection is external in the form of an ulcer, mouth rot or fin rot, follow the treatment instructions for the specific problem.

Parasites
Parasites are by far the most common problem with fish health. If the parasites don't kill the fish the complications they cause will. Gill flukes introduce bacteria while destroying the gills of the fish. All parasites can do damage to the skin allowing bad bacteria to penetrate and cause secondary complications such as bacterial infections. There are several types of common parasites. Most all cannot be seen by the naked eye. These include Ick, Chilodonella, Costia, Flukes & Trichodina. If a mucus scraping is performed and the mucus put under a microscope you can see these little creatures moving about like crazy! Fish Lice (Argulus) and Anchor Worm can be seen without a microscope if you look closely. So can Ick when it's in an advanced stage. Parasites are also very easy to get rid of. We have put together a treatment regimen called a Parasite Pak that will knock out these deadly creatures! Find our Parasite Pak and Other Parasitic Treatments

Toxic Water
If you suspect that anything toxic has been added to your water immediately do a major (80%) water change and don't forget to de-chlorinate the new water added. Hold some of the affected water aside for testing or test your water right away for ammonia, nitrite and pH. Any reading at all of ammonia or nitrites is not to be taken lightly. Beef up your biological filtration because the problem will return within a day or two and keep returning until the nitrifying cycle is in place. Find more information about ammonia, nitrites and pH by reading this article: "Water Parameters - Why those tests are important".

Virus
Viruses are the deadliest and scariest of all fish afflictions because they kill quick and complete and often before you even suspect a problem. A new fish can be a carrier and clean out your entire population of fish. The only cure is prevention. Quarantine all new fish in a heated environment for at least 2 weeks before introducing them into your pond. Know the reputation of your fish dealer.

Aeration Problems
Fish breathe dissolved oxygen in the water through their gills. If water contains inadequate amounts of dissolved oxygen the fish simply smother. Many water treatments such as potassium permanganate and AlgaeFix use oxygen when they work. "Oxygenating plants" give off oxygen during the day but then take it all back at night and on overcast days. Add aeration whenever treating your pond. Add long term aeration (such as air pump, waterfalls, fountains) for ponds that are very still. Find Aerating Pumps and Stones

Anchor Worm
One of the few parasites that can be seen with the naked eye, the anchor worm attaches to the body and fins of the fish. It looks like a tiny string or skinny worm that protrudes from the side of the fish. If pinched or pulled off by hand, the head of the anchor worm will remain lodged in the skin of the fish. The anchor worm is considered a crustacian and is not as common as some of the other parasites. Salt and potassium permanganate will not kill them. Find more information on Anchor Worm in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Ulcer Disease
Appearing in the beginning as small red blotches, ulcers will eat away at the fish and eventually cause large holes in the flesh. Death often occurs but it can be treated if caught early enough. It's commonly caused by parasites. Bad bacteria is allowed to penetrate the skin of the fish through small holes caused by the parasite. Sometimes the parasite might even introduce the bacteria. The flesh around the ulcer literally rots and you may notice that fungus starts to grow on the ulcer itself. The fungus is feasting on the dead tissue.

Another cause of ulcers is when a boo-boo gets infected. You'll see this a lot immediately following spawning. The females are often thrown against rocks and the eggs literally beaten out of them by the males (we won't go there...). The result is a tear in the skin that bacteria invades. A healthy fish (or one that is not stressed) can often throw off infection on his own and the boo-boo will heal without intervention -- but a female being chased around the pond is certainly going through stress and will be more susceptible to infection. Parasites also contribute to the stress factor and make it harder for the fish to fend off the infection.

Overcrowded conditions will also set the mood for ulcer disease - aggravating an already serious situation - so you may need to thin out your population if you have chronic problems with ulcer disease.

If you spot a tear in the skin on your koi or goldfish but it's not red underneath and does not look infected, the fish may not become infected. Keep an eye on him! If an infected ulcer turns white after being red it is now healed. There are many things you can do to treat ulcer disease. Here are a few suggestions. Find more information on bacterial disease in our article, "Battle of the Bacteria". Find Medications to Battle Ulcer Disease

Since ulcer disease is often a secondary infection to parasitic infestation you must first determine the cause of the disease and get rid of what caused it before you can get rid of the disease. If you added any new fish within the past 30 days or so, it's almost certain that you have parasites causing them and it would be advisable to treat the whole pond for parasites. We have a Parasite Pak that's perfect for cleaning up the pond of any parasites that may be lurking.

If ulcers appear on female fish after spawning or as a result of a boo-boo, it's a safe bet that parasites are not the culprit so I wouldn't waste the time and effort to treat for parasites. Use your common sense and knowledge of your particular pond and fish to rule out parasitic infestation as the cause of your ulcers.

Now, let's treat the ulcers! It's best to isolate all infected fish in a hospital tank so that you can get to them without stressing them each time you need to treat them. Keep in mind that you will need to closely monitor the water quality of your holding tank. Poor water quality can kill so regular water changes may be in order.

There are several treatment methods from which you can choose. I'll start with what we do to treat our own fish for ulcers. #1 - If the koi or goldfish is in pretty good physical condition you can dip them once a day in Tricide-Neo for several days. It comes in 2 sizes - 1 gallon and 5 gallon. Tricide-Neo, however, is a harsh treatment and can be too rough on a fish who is barely holding on or having gill problems. For those more delicate fish it's best to use Lil' Dabado Antibiotic Scrub. #2 - Feed Triple Antibiotic Food to the infected fish for no less than 2 weeks and no more than 3 while they are in the hospital tank and after they have been returned to the pond. It's not a bad idea to feed all the fish this food to prevent outbreaks of ulcers during this time. The antibiotic food helps prevent the bacterial infection from going internal to the fish's organs. Lil' Dabado comes also in a Double Whammy Pack that includes a lb. of the Triple Antibiotic Food. #3 - For added insurance you may want to reduce the amount of anaerobic bacteria present in the pond. Use Anti-Bacteria and treat the whole pond. DO NOT COMBINE Anti-Bacteria with any other treatments. ALSO - It will kill the good nitrifying bacteria in your biological filter as well as the bad so BY PASS your filtration while you are treating the pond with this or any other bacteria-killing agents.

Alternative Treatment Methods: You can inject your fish with antibiotics or have a vet do it. Injections are definitely more stressful than other methods. You could use some of the other marketed "cures" for ulcers like Melafix but we find that these work as tonics more than cures and do not do the same great job as what we use. If fungus has set in on the ulcers you may want to treat with Anti-Fungus - but DO NOT combine the treatment with another one at the same time

Dropsy (aka Pinecone Disease)
Internal Bacterial Infection
In advanced stages, after the body has swelled, eyes have bulged and/or scales are sticking out (like a pinecone) this disease is usually always fatal. It is an internal infection that has invaded one or more of the fish's organs. Injections and water treatments may be worth a try, however, don't expect recovery. If the fish is breaking out with massive ulcers the most humane treatment is to euphonize the fish. Dropsy is not contagious so if the fish is left in his home pond there should be no problems. Find more information on bacterial disease in our article, "Battle of the Bacteria".

If you suspect dropsy but it's not in the advanced stages, you may be able to treat and prevent the dropsy from worsening. Feed triple antibiotic food and treat with a medicated water treatment.

Egg Impaction
Internal Condition
If a female loaded with eggs does not spawn, her eggs are often absorbed back into her body. If they are not absorbed and she is unable to expel them she can become egg impacted. The eggs literally rot inside her. Place her with males in a heated environment and create areas where they can spawn. If that doesn't work professional veterinarian help is advised. This condition will weaken the female and eventually she will die. Swelling of the body above the "waist line" is a sign of dropsy, not egg impaction.

Fish Lice (Argulus)
Treat for Parasites
A pesty little parasite that salt won't kill. Treat as you would treat flukes. Find more information on Argulus in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Flukes
Treat for Parasites
If your fish are flashing heavily and salt has not stopped it then your fish may be infested with flukes. They attack the tender tissue of the gills and, by causing tiny holes in the fish where opportunistic bacteria can enter the fish's body, can be a major cause of bacterial infection. Find more information on Flukes in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Fungus
Treat for Bacteria
Fungus is secondary to a bacterial infection and feeds off of dead tissue. The bacterial infection should be treated along with the fungus. Find more information on fungus and bacterial disease in our article, "Battle of the Bacterias".

Ich
Treat for Parasites
One of the most common parasites. Ich looks like salt on the fins or small white dots on the skin of the fish in advanced cases. A very deadly parasite. We've found that it seems to be more deadly in goldfish than in koi. Find more information on Ich in our article, "Flash Dance - A Closer Look at Parasites".

Nitrite Poisoning
Water Quality
When ammonia is converted by nitrifying bacteria into nitrites it is still deadly to the fish. It stays in the blood system of the fish and turns the blood brown. An immediate 80% water change is in order but a salt treatment after the water change will help insure the fish are not effected by the poison in their system. This is a sign that the biological filtration is lacking Nitrobacter Bacteria, the healthy and necessary nitrifying bacteria responsible for the conversion of nitrites to harmless nitrates. Find more information about the nitrifying cycle in our article, "Mother Nature's Balancing Act - The Nitrifying Cycle".

pH Crash
Water Quality
pH is at its highest (most alkaline) in the afternoon and at its lowest (most acidic) in the morning. pH fluctuates some during the day but unstable pH (fluctuates more than half a point in 24 hours) can be a recipe for disaster. A pH Crash is when the pH suddenly drops down past 6.5 or 6.0. It's like a fish being dropped into a vat of acid the fish cannot adapt to the change or live in water so acidic for long. The best thing to do is to make an immediate water change then stabilize the pond water with a pH stabilizer to prevent it from happening again. The pH of water can also go the other way and be too alkaline. A pH of over 7.8 is to be of concern. The presence of cement in the pond will cause the pH to rise well over healthy readings. Find more information on the effects of pH by reading the following article, "Getting the Swing Out of pH".

Septicemia
Treat for Internal Bacteria Infection
Septicemia is an internal infection that is like an ulcer on the inside. It spreads throughout the body and, unlike Dropsy, does not confine itself to a particular organ. Spoiled foods inside the intestines of the fish can cause this disease. The fish's body is regulated by water temperatures. It is not able to digest foods when water temperatures are too cold and food left in the intestines will spoil. To prevent it from happening we do not feed our fish at all when the temperature of the water is less than 55 degrees. We will feed wheat-germ-based foods sparingly in water temperatures less than 64 degrees.

Swim Bladder Problems
Internal Condition
Fancy goldfish have rounded bodies that are more apt to incur swim bladder problems. Feed fancy goldfish sinking pellets to prevent them from sucking air when they eat. Also placing fish that flip over in cold water into a warmed environment has been an effective treatment. Once the fish spends most his time upside down the prognosis is dim for survival. Seek professional veterinarian treatment.

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	Fluke Tabs (Use in water temperatures above 62 degrees F. Can harm weak nitrifying bacteria. Must treat twice with water changes.)
	Life Bearer / Anti-Fluke *(Use in water temperatures above 62 degrees F. Can harm weak nitrifying bacteria. Must treat twice with water changes.)*
	Prasi-Pond *(Will work in lower water temperatures (down to 50 degrees F. Safe for biological filters. Treat once and no need for water changes.)*

	Quick Cure (use in water temps down to 62 degrees F and it IS necessary to by-pass filter)
	ProForm-C (use in water temps down to 50 degrees F and no need to by-pass filter)
	Salt Treatment (must be able to remove plants)

	Fluke Tabs (Use in water temperatures above 62 degrees F. Can harm weak nitrifying bacteria. Must treat twice with water changes.)
	Anti-Fluke *(Use in water temperatures above 62 degrees F. Can harm weak nitrifying bacteria. Must treat twice with water changes.)*
	Prasi-Pond *(Will work in lower water temperatures (down to 50 degrees F. Safe for biological filters. Treat once and no need for water changes.)*

	Immediate First Aid 80% Water Change
	Salt Treatment
	Promote Growth of Nitrifying Bacteria

	Antibiotic Injections
	Feed Antibiotic Food
	FuBa Fix